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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.